Everyday I ride a ‘tempo’ to and from work.  The best way to describe these vehicles is an oversized rickshaw (or motorized small cart with two benches in the back), that can comfortably (in American terms of comfort) fit four people but usually jams about ten to fifteen people (plus maybe a baby or small kid).  Today was one of those extra-crowded days where a women simply laid her baby across my lap, while I sat snug against a larger Indian women who kept thinking I could understand Hindi and wouldn’t top talking to me.  There’s always a few awkward conversations in these crowded excursions to and from work.  People are always testing their English (or testing my possible friendship) with questions such as ‘can I follow you’ or ‘can I take you with me’.  To all a simply ‘nehi’ or no usually suffices to end the debate.